Tips on How to Care for Your Aged Horse

Horses just like us humans age at different rates, chronological age doesn't always match the aging process. With careful management and a little insight the veteran horse can live a longer and more productive life.

Protect your veteran horse with good nutrition, older horses, need much more protein and fat than a middle-aged horse, they also need access to good-quality fibre. Make sure the hay they have is of good quality and not too mature, older horses cannot chew their food efficiently. 

Good quality beet pulp, alfalfa pellets or complete pellets for the older horse, add oil and make into a mash, it's easier to eat and digest. Keep a vigilant eye on your horse's weight, obese horses are at risk from all kinds of disorders, as is the horse that is underweight. The effects that diet has on our own health is indisputable, it is much the same for the horse.

Keep an eye on your horses teeth, any kind of pain associated with the mouth, will discourage a horse from eating. They should have regular check-ups with a qualified veterinarian, or horse dentist. Twice a year is recommended for the aged horse. Add more water to their feed to prevent choke.

Have the farrier check your horse's hooves on a regular basis; poor hoof care is a risk in the aged horse, so your farrier should be able to alert you to any changes.

If your aged horse is still able, and happy to go for a short ride, then exercise helps keep them toned, and interested. Turning an aged horse out is highly recommended, you will increase their interest in life and help keep them mobile. If they suffer from any of the degenerative joint disease, then small doses of Bute can be added to their feed, check with your vet if you are uncertain.

A regular worming and vaccination programme is as essential to the aged horse, as it is to the younger horse. Be pro-active; plan your dates in advance.

Comfort is key in maintaining and managing the older horse. Keep your eye on the weather, older horses' soon lose condition if they are turned out in poor weather, a decent rug and access to a field shelter is a must for the older horse. The same rules apply for warmer weather, access to shade and clean water is essential, a summer rug can help to keep horse fly bites at bay.

If you see any changes in your horse, for example, rapid weight loss, diarrhea, depressed appetite, or he just doesn't seem right to you, then call the vet. There is no reason why your horse cannot live to a ripe old age, be vigilant, use your intuition and watch his behaviour, keep him/her comfortable and enjoy your time together.

What Is An Anvil and What Is It Used For?

Most of modern civilization's early steel products were born on the top of an anvil. There are many detailed writings, books, publications, and online videos detailing what an anvil is and what a quality anvil should look like. To cover the entire history would take volumes, but we will discuss the primary uses and how to find a high quality anvil.

What are the Different Types of Anvils

It is without question, the anvil has many unique forms applicable to the intended use for a particular anvil. Blacksmith anvils differ from Farrier anvils, and both differ from jewelers anvils. American anvils differ from European anvils, but they all perform the same basic task as a work station to form metal. Most anvils have a flat surface on top(face), and one or both ends have a rounded cone, the supporting bottom is called the base. The flat surface is used primarily for flattening the metal, and the rounded end is used to form a variety of shapes including horse shoes.

How Are Anvils Made

At one time the Europeans held claim to the best anvils in the world. Today, America is clearly the leader in the production of the highest quality anvils - being made of ductile steel which is then poured into molds. In times past, they were forged with hammers, and typically came in two pieces. These two pieces were called the top horn and face (flat surface), and the base. Upon completing the two sections, they were then forged together to form the complete assembly. Technology today allows us to measure the purity of the ductile steel so that the chemical composition is consistent throughout. Combined with the advances in heat treating, a through-hardened anvil, poured of ductile steel, is the highest quality you can buy.

One of the largest United States anvil manufacturers, JHM Anvils, still pours all of its anvils in a foundry in Texas. Every pour is measured for accuracy, and then they are sent to be machined. Upon completion of machining the base and top face, they are sent to a premier heat treat facility in Peoria, Illinois, to be through-hardened. They then return to the plant where they are ground, finished and painted. These are considered the highest quality anvils in the world for the farrier industry. Most of the anvils produced by JHM are focused on the farrier, otherwise known as a horseshoer.

Revulcanized Vs Bonded Crumb Horse Stall Mats

When making the investment in rubber flooring for your horse stable, be sure that you are purchasing the best product for the job. At first thought, you may assume that a horse mat is a horse mat and it doesn't matter what one you get, but on closer examination, there are a number of important factors to consider when choosing the best mat for your stalls. Some of these include: revulcanized vs. straight edge vs. interlocking mats?

There are a number of reasons why revulcanized rubber is superior to bonded crumb rubber when it comes to stall flooring. Here are 6 reasons why you should choose revulcanized rubber flooring for most horse flooring applications:

1. Polyurethane bonded mats can absorb animal fluids while revulcanized mats do not absorb moisture
2. Animal fluids can cause the polyurethane binder to deteriorate creating wear spots as the crumb flakes away, revulcanized matting does not have this problem
3. Animal fluids trapped in the bonded crumb mats can cause bacteria and foul odors
4. Revulcanized rubber flooring is more durable and more resilient than polyurethane bonded rubber flooring
5. Revulcanized mats will not curl, cold flow or change shape like polyurethane bonded mats can when under the temperatures and pressures of normal use
6. Revulcanized mats are made by chemically bonding the rubber under extreme pressure and heat to create the most durable and dense mat possible, while polyurethane bonded mats are glued and pressed under moderate pressure.

On the plus side for polyurethane bonded crumb mats, they typically do not have as much of the rubber odor as the revulcanized rubber mats do.

It is important to remember that companies that are selling bonded crumb mats will not advertise them as such. Remember to ask if the mats are revulcanized when getting a price. Some companies will respond to this by saying, "Yes, these are recycled rubber mats", however this is not the same thing. Visually you can tell the difference between the two by the surface. When you look closely at a bonded crumb mat, you can see that it looks like bits of crumb rubber glued together. Revulcanized rubber mats have a smooth, non-porous surface.

When comparing pricing, be sure to consider the product life, the shipping cost (this can be high for these heavy products), and the health of your horse and workers.

When making the investment in stall flooring, be sure to choose a product that will give you years of life with no headaches. We stand behind our quality matting products with a solid warranty. Join the many happy customers that have made Treadall their choice for heavy duty rubber mats.

Treadall offer sells both revulcanized rubber mats and polyurethane bonded rubber mats among other specialty flooring products across North America. Our full range of products include: horse stall mats, rubber horse arena footing, foaling stall mats, breeding mats, button top and perforated wash stall mats, arena dust control solutions and more.

Are You a Horse Rider?

Riding a horse is not just about sitting there and hanging on. Many people are surprised to learn that it's not just the horse getting a work out. Proper riding takes balance and skill to properly communicate with the animal.

Position is the most important and will directly affect not only your security, but the comfort of the horse as well. Too many would-be riders think that sitting deep on their seats and rounding their backs will keep them in the saddle. However, this slouched position puts unnecessary pressure on the lumbar region of the horse's spine, gives no clear direction, and will soon fatigue the rider. 

Rather you should sit up on your ' sitting bones' located in your pelvis and straighten your back. Your shoulders should be relaxed and slightly back and your hands should be just above the front of the saddle. Your legs hang down either side of the horse and your heels must be down. Only the ball of your foot should be on the stirrup tread, and there should be an invisible straight line between your ear, shoulder and heel. 

Be very conscious of your leg position! It is very common for beginners to revert to a hunched toe-down position when they are frightened. Unfortunately this position will do nothing for your balance and also frightens the horse since it is similar to the stance of an attacking animal.

When communicating with the horse you will use your legs, hands, balance and voice. All of these aids should be subtle and light. Don't get into the habit of constantly squeezing or kicking with your legs! These signals tell the horse to go, but once he's moving it is not necessary to keep reminding him! If your heels are down with balanced pressure in the stirrups, you won't fall off. Likewise, don't constantly pull and fiddle with the reins. If the horse is wearing a bit, this can be painful and aggravating. The reins are for communicating directions, not something to hold you on the horse.

When riding your horse, try to move your hips in rhythm with his stride. Bouncing or swaying in the saddle will be uncomfortable for both of you. English riders learn to "post" the trot, which involves a controlled rising and sitting in tune with the horse's movements. Western riders don't normally post, but are expected to 'sit the trot' without bouncing in the saddle.

Riding a horse properly takes time and a lot of practice.  Just because you can stay on doesn't necessarily make you a rider. Proper use of the aids, complete control at all times, and considering the comfort of the horse are all part of the equation. Start slow and don't be in too much of a hurry to excel. In the meantime, enjoy your horse according to your current abilities and both you and he will be safe and happy.

High Tech Advances in Horse Health - Equine Thermography

Man versus machine

Using military-derived technology and techniques perfected over 30 years, the physiology of your horse can be objectively assessed, identifying those brewing problems. All animals are thermally symmetrical, so deviation from this indicates altered physiological processes which overlay the site of an injury or disease. Graphically mapping the temperature across the skin's surface with Veterinary Thermal Imaging instantly pinpoints problem areas.

Vets and owners have been feeling and palpating legs for centuries to gauge differences in temperature linked to injury. With the advent and application of technology, the degree of accuracy and objectivity that can be attained is far superior. The human hand can detect a difference of 2 degrees Celsius, whereas the Thermal Imaging camera used in Veterinary Thermal Imaging is 40 times more sensitive. When you consider that only a 1 degree Celsius increase may result from some sympathetic dysfunctions, without Veterinary Thermal Imaging, problems could be overlooked rather than promptly treated, which saves money, time, distress and gives better prognoses.

The camera is the size of a camcorder, silent in operation, non-contact, emits no radiation and Imaging can be repeated as often as required. This is ideal for owners, as it removes the hassle of travelling, the need for sedation, stress in the animal, and cost; a full anatomical report costs about the same as one x-ray.

Early Warning System

During a two-year study it was shown that Equine Thermography could effectively and accurately pick up subtle changes in temperature prior to major injury occurring in 95% of cases, and 2-3 weeks before the trainer or Vet became aware. Of those horses that underwent clinical examination for lameness, Thermal Imaging again correctly predicted the site of the injury in 95% of cases.

Most horses don't have just one problem associated with lameness or a bad back. Often there are other secondary causes which may be overlooked, and cause the primary problem to reoccur unless they're also treated. Thermal Imaging is an excellent tool to identify these secondary problems so they can be managed too.

Complete MOT

Whilst Equine Thermography is excellent for detecting leg problems, this is only the tip of the iceberg. Further uses include identifying and assessing;

- bad backs; 

- joint damage; 

- muscular problems; 

- dental pain; 

- skin conditions; 

- nerve dysfunction; 

- foot balance; 

- saddle fitting;

all of which could be picked up within one hour-long Imaging session. As thermal images are objective, and graphically map the extent of an injury and healing progress, owners can review and assess treatments together with their Vet and physiotherapist, getting the horse back into work as soon as possible.

Animal Communication and Healing - Talking With Horses

As the concept of animal communication becomes more universally accepted it can bring extra insight and help toward understanding behavioural problems. This may make a difference if an animal is considered to be out of control, or is displaying signs of stress or discomfort for no apparent reason, and the owner is considering parting with it. Coupled with hands-on healing, communication is very useful as a complementary tool as it can bring to light problems that are not easily noticeable. However, it must always be considered complementary and it can never replace veterinary care.

Whilst studying animal care I was invited to a riding stable to see a small pony, and a large mare, both young animals that were not behaving well despite having had several vet checks, and also having had help from an animal communicator. The small pony had not given any idea as to why she was naughty and seemed to enjoy her misbehaviour. When I started the hands-on healing, to my surprise (and also to the surprise of her owners) she relaxed completely, almost to the point of going to sleep, she behaved very well, obviously enjoyed it, and went off happily. We were no wiser except to conclude that she was young, liked being naughty and would need a lot of training. 

The large mare, Betty, was very different, according to the communicator she was aware that her owners had talked of getting rid of her, she was very frightened about this but, nevertheless, when being ridden after a short while she would rear up and throw the rider off. She had received many veterinary checks, and also had checks on her spine and there didn't seem to be a valid reason for this. She was quite relaxed whilst I moved along her right side and came round to the front, in fact she was friendly. As I moved round to her left side she became more tense, and as soon as my hands went past her shoulder, her head came round and she pushed me firmly away.This was repeated in front of her owners who said " We really have done our best and nothing can be found to be wrong.

" Eventually it was decided that as she was only young, and of good stock, she would go to a breeding stable to see if she could be a brood mare in due course; her behaviour was only difficult when she was being ridden. At that stable she was given a complete body scan, and was found to have an ovarian cyst which was affecting her left side, once dealt with she became much happier and confident and now enjoys life. Whilst the healing and communication could not solve the problem it was able to show that the horse was genuinely frightened, and had a good reason for her apparently dangerous behaviour.

The concept also works the opposite way in which the animal itself instigates the communication. I was given a very good example of this when having a telephone discussion with a friend about a horse she planned to buy. As she explained to me that a veterinary check had taken place, and that a problem with one leg had shown up on an Xray, and this problem would need looking at and would cost more money, I had the image of a horse's head come into my mind and the distinct feeling that they should not waste their money. 

I could 'see' the horse clearly in my mind and was able to describe it, and it appeared to be the horse my friend was talking about. We were both amused by this occurence but wondered if she should go ahead with the purchase, was this the 'message' that was coming across? She referred the Xray back to the vet that had taken it, and he said " that is just a shadow on the Xray, is nobody capable of reading an Xray properly?" The horse's leg was fine and the purchase was made, we could not explain how the horse had managed to join in our conversation, but she is a very sensitive animal may be as we were concentrating so hard on her we made a connection.

There are different ways that people use to make the connection with animals, I personally think that anyone that is a genuine animal lover would be able to do it, and also anyone that is a genuine healer. In the UK a prominent animal communicator is developing a system he calls 'The Trust Technique' and he is using it with wild animals as well as domesticated ones. Another very experienced horse owner is using E.F.T.(Emotional Freedom Technique) to great effect. This is a therapy that uses tapping with the finger on meridian points around the body, a bit like the concept of acupuncture but without needles.

 As an E.F.T. practitioner she used the technique on herself when she had experienced a serious fall, and was very wary about getting on a horse again; and as the technique had worked for her she used it on the horse as well. Since that time she has helped many people, and animals, sometimes from a distance using photographs.These are her words " Horses, more than many domestic animals, are just big emotions on legs. They FEEL everything, and some of the emotions that appeared to me whilst tapping, surprised me with their complexity."

As our knowledge about the working of the mind, human and animal, grows and expands, I believe that we will accept that many of our pets, and animals that we are connected with, blend with our energy systems, and we with theirs benefiting human and animal alike.

What Is a Farrier?

Horseshoeing

Horseshoeing is one of the oldest trades in the world, and one of the ancient blacksmith's primary jobs. The blacksmith used his anvil and forge to create many items made of steel. He heated the steel in the forge, primarily coal or organic fueled, then forged and shaped it on the anvil to create the sword, wagon wheel, or horseshoe. Today, the modern blacksmith performs primarily artistic pieces like gates, chandeliers, statues and the like. The Farrier now performs the trade of horseshoeing.

What is a farrier?

The farrier is a professional who makes a living putting horseshoes on horses. Today he is educated in a school that teaches him all of the anatomy surrounding the hoof, from horse conformation to subtle diseases affecting the hoof. In school and apprenticeship, he learns how to put horse shoes on, and how to treat most ailments of the horses hoof. Just a few decades ago, there were no horse shoeing schools, and the horse-shoer (farrier) came from a farm, or was an apprentice for a journeyman farrier so he could learn the trade. Many equine veterinarian firms have a practicing farrier on staff or referral because many farriers have a detailed knowledge of the horses hoof since that is their focus.

What are Farrier Supplies or Farrier Tools?

The tools of his trade: called farrier supplies, includes the following: an anvil, hammer, forge, tongs, hoof knife, rasp, hoof nippers and hoof stand, a nail clincher and clinch block, and a variety of other related farrier tools. The farrier uses his hoof stand to hold the horses leg and hoof upright, then he removes the old horseshoes, and using his hoof nipper and hoof knife he trims the hoof, then makes it smooth with his rasp. He then attaches the horse shoes to the hoof with special horseshoe nails. He must be careful when trimming the hoof, because it is similar to trimming your fingernails-there is a comfortable level of trimming, and then you can trim too deep and cause injury.

Professional farriers know how to correct the horses balance in walking with just the trimming of the hoof. Many times hoof coatings and hoof hardeners or other hoof care products are used to treat ailments of the frog, white line disease, quarter crack, or laminitis...all horse hoof ailments. To find out more visit the link in our resource area below.